Carnival in Goa
was a great leveler. Early accounts-all of them hearsay-are
indeed educative. The white masters masqueraded as black slaves
and the latter-generally slaves brought in from Mozambique-plastered
their faces with flour and wore high battens, or walked on
stilts. For those three ephemeral days, they were happy to
be larger than life. And while the whites and the blacks mimicked
each other, the brown locals watched this reversal of roles
in awe from the sidelines.
In course of time, when the imperial regime mellowed and inhibitions
dwindled, Carnival, no more an excuse to be what one was not-and
often hoped to be-became a time for bonhomie. The old crude
mimicry blossomed into social satire. In the villages, the
play writers pieced together in Khel (Konkani for play) anecdotes,
events and criticism. The Portuguese Governor General, his
family and retinue used the occasion for a show of diplomacy.
They showered the crowds with poudre de riz and confetti,
and were happy to be showered back. At the carnival balls,
the governor-general danced with whom he pleased-provided,
of course the lady agreed to the request. And anyone was free
to ask the governor-general's wife for a dance. And if the
tango demanded, they danced cheek-to-cheek, hip-to-hip.
In 1922, when Dr. Jaime de Morais was Governor General of
Goa , the entire area around the 'Palacio do Hidalcao' was
transformed into a 'fairy land'. The Governor General entertained
the children of Panjim in a somewhat curious manner. He waged
a war with them from the verandah of his palace with 'cocotes'
(powder bombs), bags of perfumed powder, flowers and sugar
plums. The air was dotted with multicoloured trails attached
to bobbing balloons. The streets were a riot of colours as
the procession of horse-drawn carriages, decorated bullock
carts and gorgeously bedecked floats wound their way up them
For the next three days the carnival traffic jammed the streets
alongside Hidalcao Palace , the Municipal Gardens and the
fountainheads.
Once, Goa carnival was a mood. It had no spectators and was
strictly for participants. From dawn to dusk and back to dawn
again, they sang and danced, changed costumes and partners
and serenaded their namorados, girlfriends. Those who fell
in love during carnival married after Easter.
During the ancient carnival authentic battles were fought
between opposing army-like groups wherein the participants
were not only young people but also prominent citizens. The
Portuguese sailors from the fun ship Sado made the carnival
scene even more picturesque. Adding to the charm were groups
of singers and musicians with their guitars, mandolins and
other musical instruments, singing fados along with other
carnival tunes.
The carnival of those times was sometimes reduced to a 'mini-revolution',
wherein masked bands entered the homes of friends and acquaintances-raiding
their kitchens and taking the best food they could find there.
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